Alive and well

For anyone doubting whether Uli & Anka, had ditched Konstantin somewhere in Africa for the comforts of a chateaux in the Alps or someplace similar. Heres is proof that they are alive, very well and still loving their Rwemad adventure.

Uganda – Part ll (13.10-19.10.2009)

We stayed on another day at the Rhino Sanctuary, as there was a possibility to see the shoebill at the swamps of the Lugogo River, which runs through this area.

We arranged the guide and did a morning walk of 5 km but were not lucky, as there was no way to enter the swamps.

As it is main rain season in Uganda (Uli overlooked this factor in his planning!), we have chosen to travel as much as possible on tar, as the byroads are bottomless.

We drove direction Kampala and turned off at Wobulenzi, taking a shortcut to Mityana and then on to Fortportal. We took residence at the renovated Mountain of the Moon Hotel situated in a landscaped, well wooded park. Unfortunately the service level was not “renovated”

The next morning, we tackled the unpaved mountain pass along the Ruwenzoris into the Semliki Valley, leading into the National Park.

It is famous for birding and offers ca 40 species of Central Africa, which reach their eastern border.

The birding was again very difficult as most types flit around in the canopy. So we abandoned this activity and visited the ‘male and female’ hot springs, where sulphur rich 105°C hot water geysers to the surface.

The name “male and female’ indicates the bathing rituals of the locals, which are allowed to bath at those designated springs.

Basket Truck

The next day we tackled the first part of the Kirumia River trail. It is famous for forest birding but our result was one female chestnut wattle eye, which we had hooked off at Murchison already. So we said goodbye to a very wet and damp forest and traveled through the savannah of the oldest proclaimed Wildlife Reserve of Uganda; Semliki, up to Ntoroko at the shores of Lake Albert. What a campsite - being surrounded by thousands of birds; water and grassland species, it was fantastic!

Northern red bishop

Sacred Ibis

We arranged through Patrick, the parks board ranger, a fiberglass boat from the Ugandan defense force and went out the following morning to search for the shoebill, accompanied by two Ugandan Defense force guardswith their unavoidable, rusty and dirty AK—47’s.

The Lakes shallow waters are warm and swarming with Tilapia and Nile perch, attracting hundreds of fishermen with boats, nets, traps and lines. All kind of water birds utilize the swamps and the abundance of the water hyacinth which is a huge threat to Africa's waterways, forming little islands and platforms, to fish and breed like champions.

We didn’t need long to find “our” Shoebill, stalking through the ‘flowerbeds’. We approached to ca 50 meters and had the privilege to observe him for over an hour.

We learned that 18 shoebills were counted fours years ago in this area, which supposedly makes it a nearly guaranteed sighting.

Excited about our luck we celebrated at the return to the campsite with some champagne.

Our camp attendant had managed to secure a 5Kg Nile perch for us (4988) from last nights catch, which we cooked on the coals for lunch.

Three thunderstorms developed over Lake Albert and ended this very special day on a ‘wet note.’

We planned to return to Fortportal and then visit the crater lakes in the vicinity.

The clay roads were very slippery as we left and soon we met a bunch of trucks which had skated all over, one totally blocking the road. We were approached to rescue but had to decline, as Konstantin is not ready yet to pull 15 tons of steel out of the mud.

We returned to camp, organized some help from town and enjoyed a late breakfast. Two hours later, the news came that the road was cleared and we slithered along, passing numerous trucks which were stuck.

Banana country

We took camp at Lake Nkuruba, a campsite looking down on a Crater Lake, surrounded by large forest trees.

Now we were privileged to look the forest birds eye to eye, as the canopy was below us. The Great Blue - and Ross’s Turaco, as well as the Piping - and Black and White Casqued Hornbills were some of the more spectacular sightings.

The most entertaining show however we received from about 30 Black and White Colobus as well as a group of 20 Vervet Monkeys.

The youngsters of both types mingled freely and played catch. It was a peaceful, laid back setting and even the, by now, obligatory afternoon thundershower could not disturb the tranquility.

Happy Birthday Uli, have a MAD day

Love Lorna & Marc

Uganda – The Pearl of Africa - Part 1

The drive onwards to Malaba, the Kenya/Uganda border, was smooth and we were whisked through the Kenyan side. Uganda ( Which Winston Churchill referred to as 'the Pearl of Africa ') is not as welcoming as it used to be. The immigration officer used his acting/ arrogant skills to explain the validity of a Ugandan visa and the custom officer decided to go on a 1½ hour lunch break. (Ethiopian style?) After he had signed and stamped the Carnet, he demanded payment of carbon tax which was payable at the adjoining office of Standard Bank. Where they did not hesitate to charge 8% on the transaction without giving a receipt. Daylight robbery!

The roads are generally good with the occasional huge potholes.

Now you know why Konstantin always has rubber chickens on the roof ladder!

We make it to Jinja and the Eden Rock Campsite, overlooking the rapids of the Victoria Nile (good for white water rafting)

Here we meet the four cars of the Intrepid African Travelers group from SA again. We had met them before at Nyeri and Nakuru, Kenya. They had abandoned their Ethiopian destination and were doing Uganda and Rwanda instead.

The explorer Speke marked ”The source of the Nile” at the outflow at Lake Victoria. This spot is commemorated by a plaque. We did not visit the place as he was proven wrong several times. In 2006, with new GPS technology, the ‘new’ source is reputedly in Rwanda but even here there is controversy about the details. Others argue that the Victorian Nile flows into Lake Albert from which the true Nile emerges but this Lake is also fed by the Semliki River out of the Rwenzori Mountains. Only time will tell who is right.

The next day we visited the friendly team of Wild Frontiers in Entebbe to confirm all bookings made six months ago.

Going back we had to go through Kampala with the ‘guidance’ of the GPS. What a nightmare - we made it after going through busy, muddy, crowded markets, bypassing thousands of people and animals and on barely existing roads. Only with heroic driving skills we managed to get out and leave this disaster behind.

The tar road north was good and we proceeded to the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary on the way to Murchison Falls Park. This is the only rhino breeding station in Uganda, a 7,000ha Ranch, with extensive electrical fencing and 60 armed rangers, looking after 8 white rhinos. (The second baby was born on the day we arrived - 7.10.2009) They offer campsites and accommodation, an ideal stopover on the way to Murchison. Rhinos have been extinct since 1980 in Uganda.

The delicious Termite mound mushrooms are offered on the side of the road. We cannot believe our luck and buy a few to have a delicious dinner.

Our map shows Chobe entrance gate near the Karuma falls. The road is not on the GPS but the traffic cops show us the turn off and we enjoy the two track bush drive and immediately see a herd of up to 50 Rothschild's giraffes and 70 buffalo. Rain clouds start to close in on us as we pass through an empty ranger post. We follow the track to the Chobe lodge which is still in the process of being rebuilt. It has the most stunning setting on the Victoria Nile. On enquiring about the road ahead we were strongly advised to turn around and use another more frequented route – ‘but the road is still there’. Then we met Peter, the ranger who also recommended taking an alternate route. But Konstantin had made up his mind and we proceeded as torrential rain hits us. It was an overgrown track, unused for years. Luckily all bridges are still intact. Sometimes the high grass engulfs us totally with blinding sheets of rain bringing our progress to a slow 20Km /h.

We did take a good four hours for the 75 km and enjoyed an estimated 120mm of monsoon like rain. We marvel at Konstantin’s ability to take all the water and dongas in his stride, confirming our belief earlier that we are not too mad! ! ?

After this experience we decided to use the relative luxury of the Paara Safari Lodge on the Victoria Nile. We enjoy the views and sumptuous dinner buffet plus the opulent breakfast selection.

Abyssinian Ground Hornbill

Our game drive the next morning, through Borassus Palm - and Acacia forests as well as savanna grasslands, in the northern game rich section of the NP, showed us an abundance of buffalo, Ugandan Kob and Oribi.

Ugandan Kob

Oribi

Intriguingly, here the oxpeckers are replaced by the Piacpiac, a peculiar, longlegged crow.

We crossed by ferry to the southern side which has no wildlife and found a camping spot near the Nile Safari Lodge.

That night it rained again nonstop for six hours. Despite this, we rose early to take a boat trip to the swampy reed beds of delta point where the Victoria Nile meets Lake Albert. We did see all kind of water birds, abundance of hippo, waterbuck and elephant but the shoebill stork was not to be seen on this overcast day.

Our next stop at the top of the Murchison falls was bright and sunny and we could dry out again and enjoy the spectacular thunder of the Murchison falls where the Victoria Nile is forced into a fault of the rift valley.

Churning water below the falls

On the way out we stayed overnight at Kaniyo Pabidi in the Budongo forest for some birding, as we were advised that the groups of chimps were too far away for some trekking. Birding in the rainforest is a different ‘kettle of fish’. You can hear them but it is very difficult to see them. To crane your neck the full time makes you giddy.

Then on to Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary again to break the long road south.

Ankole cattle

Not giving up ! !

Uli did spend two and a half days of intense work at Bhogals/Toyota workshops. The new radiator was fitted. Claude and his team did some welding and stabilizing on Konstantin’s accident impact site which had been ignored by the previous mechanics and had caused new damages.

After the test drive we had some champagne, confident that we do not have to limp home anymore or have to throw in the towel! R we mad?

We decided to take up our intended route through the west of Kenya and then on to Uganda.

At Sirikwa Safari farmhouse we had a wonderful reception, opted for their guest room as rain was imminent and booked their birding guide for the Saiwa Swamps for the next morning. This is Kenya’s smallest National Park, 40 sq km in extent. It is seldom visited but exceptional beautiful. Early at seven on a misty morning we meet Maurice at the entrance gate.

The first hour explodes in ticking off lifers from above the numerous bird hides and walkways. As the day progresses the birds started to disappear in the dense forest foliage and we opted to go to different hides to search for the sitatunga. We had two sightings.

The primate variety is narrowed to black and white Colobus, the blue monkeys and the De Brazza. With the intense agricultural activity at close range the white bearded De Brazza monkey is threatened with extinction. We were privileged to see a small group.

In the afternoon we drove to Mt Elgon National Park, bordering onto Uganda. Mt Elgon is an extinct volcano, which exploded once upon a time reducing the overall height to 4321m (Uli climbed every meter, 13 years ago) and he has a mountain base which is one and half times more than that of Kilimanjaro; this could kick off speculation of its former height.

Rarely visited, assuring you will have the park to yourself. The beautifully wooded slopes of the mountain is teeming with bushbuck, Defassa waterbuck, buffalo and black and white Colobus monkeys.

We found a campsite clearing in the forest with a mountain stream running through it.

The next day we visit the Kitum Caves, which are or rather, were famous for elephants digging for mineral salts. Unfortunately the last elephant was last seen here several years ago.

Kenya & the 600km of hell

After Moyale we tackled the first 60 Km of extreme corrugation with the intention of doing some bush camping. But no such luck: all of a sudden the heat warning light came on and Uli braked to a grinding halt. Konstantin was fuming and the radiator was leaking like a sieve. It was quite hilarious as we put ‘pot and pans’ underneath to collect the heavily overpriced coolant solution which showered out.

While we were assessing the situation a Cruiser from Moyale stopped and asked us ‘what actually we are doing?’ They pointed out that the radiator is buggered and needed to be repaired.

They offered to tow us to a village 10 km away (surely for a hefty fee!) as they themselves were actually scared about shifta (bandits) activity in the area and promised to send a mechanic to us that same evening.

We were obviously the star attraction at the village which was assembled with beehive huts behind thick thorn bush enclosures. The whole crowd admired our ‘House’ on the roof and using a gas cooker to prepare some warm food in the shortest time.

The villagers sold firewood for a living.

Just as it got dark Simon, the mechanic arrived in a rattling battered Cruiser, armed with his tool box and his cell phone as a torch.

By this time Uli was an expert in assisting to take out any radiator and in a short hour Simon was on his way again to Moyale. He promised that he can do the repair and that he will be back the next day at 9H00.

We had a very entertaining evening as herd upon herd of goats and camels passed us silently, only announced by the tinkling of their bells. From 2H00 in the morning this endless procession started again, very orderly and only encouraged by a few clicking sounds by the herders, strangely using the latest model LED torches.

That Sunday turned out to be a looong wait, as no Simon arrived at the promised time.

While waiting, Uli discovered that a cross member in front of the radiator had worked itself lose on the bad corrugation and had cut into the radiator like a ‘knife into butter’

Eventually at 15H00 Simon arrived. His excuse was that it was Sunday and all the shops were closed but he was able to obtain the parts to do the repair. In no time the car was assembled, test driven and declared fit!

At dawn the next morning we tackled the horrendous stretch to Marsabit.

We reached it and Henry the Swiss’ campsite after five grueling hours.

The camp seemed pure luxury with its bucket shower, long drop and electrical lights, compared to what we have had the last three days.

A strong wind, reaching gale force strength at times, rattled our tent for the duration of the night as well as into the next morning.

The remaining 300 Km to Isiolo were just as punishing as the day before. With the ‘4 open window aircon’ we and the inside of Konstantin were powdered with a volcanic red dust, but Simons repair lasted and we could cruise on tar to Nairobi.

Here we picked up a new radiator and the excess baggage and equipment stored at various places, did some shopping and headed to Nakuru to our well known Bhogals Toyota workshop.

On our way out

We had enough!!! After 14 days of half hearted repair approaches, bureaucracy and foul attitudes, we decided to take Konstantin out of the Toyota environment and obtained the opinion of an independent repairer. Within minutes he was fed with some 'muti’ which stopped the water leak from the radiator. We left for a test drive of 250Km to the Awash National Park.

On the Nazret - Djibouti stretch, which is the best tar, but also the busiest road in Ethiopia, we were waved at by a civilian and a person with a camouflage uniform, equipped with an AK-47. We did not pay much attention, as we have been waved and screamed at before, at least a ‘million’ times. But then Uli noticed in the rearview mirror that by now the AK-47 was aimed straight at our car and ready to be fired. After a hasty retreat and being shouted at in the usual Amharic lingo, it was made clear to us by a “chat” chewing individual, that this was a customs control point and he directed our attention to a tiny handmade road sign obscured by some camels.

After explaining to them that we were on the way to Awash N.P. and were harmless tourists, we could proceed. A sigh of relief was heaved from both of us. In a split second your trip can turn into disaster and we have had enough of that already!

The emaciated herds of camels were huge in this area and all were on the move.

There was evidence of terrible accidents of trucks and trailers plowing into these herds on the busy highway.

The National Park was nothing much, except for the Awash falls, gorge and a beautiful quiet campsite, without any facilities, under huge sycamore figs next to the chocolate brown water of the Awash river.

We decided that we would and could take a chance and go south. The afternoon saw us at Lake Langano.

Our home for the night was the very imaginative built Sabana Beach resort. The main restaurant complex looks like a volcano cone, and is a popular weekend getaway.

The initial plan to visit the Bale Mountain, as well as the South Omo area was spoilt by huge dark clouds, indicating large downpours and we ignored the turn off and headed south.

Our last overnight stop in Ethiopia was Yabelo, before reaching Moyale the next day. Unfortunately it was again12H00 on a Saturday, meaning a three hour lunch break for the border officials.

During our waiting time, Uli noticed competition!

The border officials requested a ‘donation’ for ‘good service’ resulting in our last argument in Ethiopia.