13 October – Muscat to Jebel Shams

The tribes of Oman have been at war for an age, so it is not surprising that the main historical sites are forts. On route we visit Nahkal Fort. Its dimly lit interior is relatively cool and being high on the hill has commanding views of the surrounding countryside.

Wherever we travel new roads, schools, medical centers and other infrastructure is being built. 

Even the smallest village has a school and medical facility. We turn off the highway and head up Wadi Bani Awf and Wadi Bilad Sayt, which winds their way through the vertical mountains. 

Work has begun in preparation for tarmac, but we still are able to enjoy the gravel roads that defy the imagination. How they built these passes I do not know, sadly the hard surface may make it easier to travel, but I can imagine the havoc that will be wrecked on the countryside in the process. 

On route we pass the Green Mountain, Jebel Akhdar the scene of  the conflict between Omani forces loyal to the Sultan (aided by British) and Saudi backed rebel forces of the inland Iman of Oman between 1957 and 1959. 

Today the area has been declared a conservation area, to protect the fragile desert ecosystem. The road continues to climb through the 300km long Al Hagar range towards our overnight stop on Jebel Shams the highest mountain in Oman. The area is known as the Arabian Grand Canyon, it is certainly impressive but does not live up to its American namesake in my opinion.

12 October – Muscat

One of 6 royal palaces, the ceremonial palace Al Alam

Just over 3 hours from Jordan, we land in a different world. Suliman our guide for the next 2 weeks, dressed in a neatly laundered dishdasha, is proud to point out that Muscat was voted the cleanest city after Singapore. This modern city has undergone a metamorphosis during the last couple of years. What is immediately obvious is that there are no high-rise buildings as the maximum height has been restricted to 4 storeys. Buildings are built between the mountains, not on them, which gives the city a very uncluttered look.

We head down to the vibrant fish market, which is clean and orderly. Each day the local fisherman return to sell their catch, which is supplemented by fish brought in from other parts of Oman. There is a staggering variety on sale.

We visit the souk, the heady aroma of frankincense wafts in the air. Clothes, perfumes, frankincense, traditional walking canes, Omani daggers and piles of silver jewellery are the main items on sale, by the Indian, Pakistani and Bangladeshi merchants.

Colourful fish and even two turtles swim in the crystal clear blue water of the harbour alongside fishing dhows and the massive bin Said yacht.

Its been 27 hours since we last slept, so within seconds of putting our heads on the pillow we are unconscious. We wake just in time to take a stroll along the corniche, which is obviously the place to be seen, with Maserati’s vying with Lamborghini’s for attention.

Mosques are central to Islam, so what better way to show the countries wealth and the benevolence of His Highness, the Sultan Qaboos, than to build a magnificently opulent Grand Mosque for the nation. 

 

With a carpet that took 400 woman four years to weave, it has 1,700,000 knots, weighs 21 tons, measures over 70 × 60 meters, and covers the 4,343 square meter prayer hall, in a single piece. 

A 14meter high, 8 ton Swarovski crystal chandelier hangs from the central dome.