Limping out of Ethiopia

Its been 3 weeks since Konstantin's accidents and the flurry of blog updates, while Anka had internet access, so I thought I would update everyone, as the only means of communicating has been via horrendously expensive cell phone calls. Uli booked Konstantin into, what turned out to be a rather, unfriendly bureaucratic (maybe due to the language barrier)Moenco garage, the Ethiopian Toyota dealership in Addis. The first day was spent analyzing the damage and preparing the quotation to undertake the mechanical repairs so that Uli & Anka could continue 'B ing Mad' travelers. Konstantin was promised for Thursday. Being a season African explorer and after this trip a garage veteran, Uli stationed himself at Moenco to make sure that work continued. As it turned out, the promised repaired radiator did not materialize and Moenco made various attempts at soldering K's damaged radiator until Monday 21 September, when Uli decided enough is enough and severed ties with Moenco. To add to their woes, it was discovered that the alternator was putting out a far greater voltage than is the norm.

But, you do not easily deter Uli & Anka. Armed with 2 bottles of radiator Stop leak, they gingerly left Addis behind and headed towards Awash National Park, about 250km's away as a test run. The radiators leak persisted after the first bottle, but miraculously the second did the trick. Buoyed up by this stroke of good luck they headed towards the Bale Mountains.

This past Saterday, Uli advised that they were heading back to Nairobi, their intention was to travel via Moyale (Ethiopia/Kenya border) back over one of the worst roads in Africa to Marsibit and then on to Nairobi, arriving hopefully today and even more hopefully a replacement radiator, that the ever reliable Claude of Bhogals Toyota had secured for us.

But, Africa still had a couple more hurdles to test the stamina of team Mad 2. A strut on the radiator that had not been secured corrected worked its way into a position, allowing it to slice a gash into the already weakened radiator. Uli's decision to take the busier (1 vehicle every other day road), but far worse condition road had been correct. They managed to flag down a lonesome traveller, who towed them to area where there was less treat from Shiftas, who move through this area from Somalia. Nothing is for nothing in Africa, so after receiving payment the driver agreed to arrange a mechanic to come out to Konstantin. As usual, problems always present themselves on weekend, so Uli & Anka had a long wait until the mechanic arrived on Sunday afternoon, remember there are no facilities and temperature soar way up into the 40's in this part of the world.

Very fortunately the mechanic new his stuff, his soldering has held, Konstantin has brought his weary, dirty and rather relieved passengers to Marsabit. They still have a very long road ahead, with the 250km section tomorrow being the worst, before they finally reach the relative sanctuary of Niarobbery, if all goes to plan on Wednesday.

But as Uli says, after a shower(cold or hot) and a night to lick their wounds, they will be fighting fit and ready for the next leg of their Rwemad adventure.

We wish them the very best of luck, they are an inspiration.

Marc & Lorna

New Year celebration in Addis

On the road approaching Addis, street sellers were offering bunches of yellow daisies and bundles of grass to be used for New Year celebrations in this country.

In our disheveled state this was just the right uplifting experience.

From three in the afternoon an ongoing coffee ceremony was performed in the reception hall of our hotel.

At a festive dinner, we were entertained by singing azmari (wandering minstrels - Minnesaenger), playing on drums and masenko (single-stringed fiddle), singing and prancing around. We did not understand a word of their Amharic renditions but the laughter was contagious. Fellow female diners taking part in a strange way of ‘dancing’, with fixed grins, madly flapping breasts, shuddering shoulder movements, creating a whirling demonic whole, had us spell bound.

When we proceeded to the still ongoing coffee ceremony for a late night brew, a guest of honour was called to bless, cut and dish out a special bread baked for the occasion. Curiously, serving popcorn is part of the tradition.

Shortly before midnight bundles of long twigs were handed out, ignited and a big fire was created with them. Everyone carried on singing and dancing around the fire, supported by the drums and masenko, until it was burnt down enough for some daredevils to jump across.

This brought us “back” to the year 2002 in the Julian calendar.

We hope that this does not mean that we have to travel another seven years to reach home in the Gregorian time zone?

First campsite in Ethiopia.......then disaster.

With an early start we traveled on gravel out of Lalibela via Gashena, joining the ‘Chinese road’ to Weldiya. We did not get any ‘regular’ petrol here and carried on south to the small town of Hayk . A lake with same name (for curiosity’s sake Hayk means ‘lake’ in the Amharigna language – ie we stayed at lake Lake), with 3500 ha and an altitude of over 2000m, it is renowned for both its bird life and for the historical monastery of Hayk Istafonos. It is a lovely atmospheric spot. Its water ringed by green hills and fringed by reed beds and is plied by traditional fishermen with papyrus tankwas.

We noticed large numbers of water birds, including the pink backed pelican and were lucky to hook off the black billed barbet, black winged lovebird and the grey woodpecker as lifers. We could arrange it to stay on a nearby ‘hill’ above a ‘recreation resort’ with an outstanding view over the lake, instead of on the lakeshores mud and amidst gawkers. The obligatory guard was snoring under a tree nearby. We enjoyed it so much that Uli donated some precious sickle wood (from Joburg) and some spare ribs (of the same origin) to light our first campfire in this country.

Day of disaster

In Dese we found 'Regular’ and could fill our tanks. We wanted to cross to Mille, situated on the Djibouti main road and then go south to the Awash National park – a trip of ca 460 Km – a hell of task for Ethiopian conditions. The mountainous curving road, partly under construction, winds its way to Kembolcha and turns left into Afar territory. During the morning we experienced oncoming traffic violating many traffic rules, in particular in regard to speeding and cutting corners.

We reduced our speed to not more than 40 km/h, enabling us to counteract this ruthless behaviour. But it was not enough. Ca 5 Km before the town of Bati, known for the biggest camel market in Ethiopia, which takes place every Monday, a Landcruiser bakkie approached us in a double S curve, traveling at high speed on our side of the road. As I could not avoid the oncoming vehicle, I turned slightly to the right to avoid the head on collision and turned to the left, hitting him side ways. We came to a grinding halt as the steering mechanism was snapped off the left wheel.

Needless to mention the anger which bubbled out towards the accused with his uncontrollable driving habit. Rapidly people gathered around the scene. Police were called and they handled the proceedings very bureaucratically, unfriendly and in such a manner, that we decided to phone the German embassy for assistance. We were left standing on the accident scene from 9H00 to 16H30, besides our several requests to move the vehicle off the road.

A hotel owner from Bati, who passed by, offered us the help of a mechanic and accommodation for the night in the Vasco Hotel.

With bush mechanic tricks, a new tyre was fitted and with the effort of three hours of intensive work we managed to pull Konstantin on to the side of the road. He was guarded by two militia policemen for the duration of the night.

The next morning, Kebir, the mechanic with his team, improved the techniques used the evening before and by lunch time Konstantin was in his ‘Garage’.

It needed another 1½ days to patch up Konstantin to such an extend, that with a 50/50 chance we could tackle the 400Km road to Addis. The biggest risk was that some straightened parts on the steering mechanism could break or the repaired radiator could leak again and overheat the engine.

We left Bati early on Wednesday morning with a sour taste in our mouth, GIVE-GIVE was written in capital letters, using our predicament shamelessly to maximum effect for their enrichment!. But thankful for those, which helped sporadically, enabled us to limp towards Addis. We reached the capital after 12 hours of traveling. The radiator had started to leak and needed to be refilled regularly.

We found accommodation at the Beer Garden Inn, an Ethio – German Hotel with attached brewery, (serving a delicious ‘Blondie’ a kind of Weizenbier) unloaded all our equipment and booked Konstantin in at Moenco (Toyota) for repairs.

A final analysis of the damages can be only done next Monday, as Friday is the Ethiopian New Year.

Rock-hewn churches, Mekele & Lalibela

On an early mornings drive from Adigrat we reach one the oldest rock hewn church (semi monolithic) of the Tigrai region. We are picked up by a ‘guide’ who explains, that we first need to fetch the priest, who is also the keeper of the key. We give them both a ‘lift’ through little used tracks amongst fields of tef and sand stone homesteads. Ploughing is done with oxen and families sit in their fields to do weeding. As we pass, heads pop up and hands wave. No tractors or implements in sight.

Climbing up steep sandstone formations, leading us to the church which is ceremoniously opened by the priest with an ingenious wooden key and rope system. We enter one of the finest rock-hewn churches in the Tigrai region.

Medhane Alem Kesho.

We continue on a side road that is neither on the map nor the GPS, however recommended by our guide book.

The landscape is vast, surrounded by rugged mountain peaks on which many historical churches can be explored, selectively, we did so. Emphasis must be given to the soil and water management in capturing it by dry stone walls and creating agriculture land where there was none before, in the midst of bare rock.

We find Gheralta Lodge en route, built with the Tigrai stacked sandstone rock construction, which is blending effortlessly in the environment, run by the Rizzotti family.

We satisfy our curiosity in spending a night in one sand stone house.

The landscape, view and silence made it a magic experience.

Mekele

We proceed to Mekele to arrange a visit to the hottest and lowest place on earth - the Danakil Depression.

We received offers from tour operators for a 3-4 days trip from USD 800 – up to 3,500, but when asking for details, not much came forward. Finally we decided on G.K.Tours which sounded reasonable and offered the usage of a Toyota Landcruiser in excellent condition.

6H30 the next morning they arrive with a beaten up Toyota GX with at least 13 years on its tyres. It was agreed that we could take our small fridge along. Unfortunately the cigarette plug had no connection and Uli started to make a direct link to the battery as the news came through that the access road, which is normally a dry river, is flooded and could trap our vehicle. It was proposed that the trip should be postponed for “tomorrow” Knowing the African meaning, and not prepared to hang around; we cancelled and carried on direction Lalibela

We stopped in a small village of Alamata which claims to have “the 3rd best” Hotel in the Tigray region. We were lucky not stopping in the 4th best............

One item from the menu read: Rise with SOS!

Lalibela

To conclude our historical circuit, we take an old route from Korem over Sekota to Lalibela. It is on good gravel and for once we are glad it is rainy season here. The morning sun lights up hill upon hill of yellow daisies(4328) called the “Addis Ababa” (new flower) New Year is coming up on the 11.9. in Ethiopia, then these flowers are gathered and exchanged for food or clothing.

We arrive in Lalibela after an arduous 5½ hours drive of 200 Km! and find our Hotel, situated at 2600meters altitude overlooking the mountains and valleys which we conquered.

A thunder storm builds up and we are happy watching this from a dry balcony.

The next day we had the full tour of 12 rock-hewn churches in Lalibela, which from the stone masonry point of view are truly amazing. Unfortunately they are full of fleas, rubbish, human excrements, etc and this doesn’t come cheap either at USD 100 for guide, entrance fee, shoe bearer and photo tips for the priests.

This is the last point of the historical circuit.

Axum & Debra Demo, the turning point

We enter the famous historical town of Axum and are left speechless and disappointed as so many before us: “Is this it!?”

The most famous stelae field is partly under construction and not maintained, despite it being a UNESCO heritage site, but as promised by our obligatory guide and future archeologist (and confirmed by different guide books) about 80% awaits uncovering.

Some of the amazing interlocking stonemasonry in the tombs are reminding us of those of the Inca and Aztec temples and pyramids of South America.

The festival ‘for the woman’ is under way and this gives them (mostly girls with drums) a new incentive to beg of these “faranji” (foreigners) incessantly.

Uli, with his long grey beard, is quite often compared to a figure in their legends and priests are fascinated by his appearance and only the language barrier keeps them from taking him up in their midst!

Turning point

On the 30.8.2009, a Sunday, we reached Debre Damo, an isolated monastery lying on a 3000 meter high table mountain, reachable only with a leather rope along sheer cliffs.

This is the most northerly point (N14°23.094, E039°16.658) on our journey. Coincidently we had done exactly 20,018 Km up to now and have completed our third month of continuous daily adventures. A bottle of champagne in the clear mountain air was called for and even the ‘give, give’ children can not postpone this simple pleasure!

From now on ‘life’ will be much easier as we will go back south wards. (Most of the time!)

We have another highlight today: the Aloka Pass. We climb into the sky and it leaves us breathless at its dizzying peak of 3,000 meters with clouds, rain and crawling trucks and busses. We are in luck this time the road is tar.

The most dramatic road in Africa

The breath taking Wolkefit pass was upon us the next morning just after the town of Debark.

Built by the Italians in the 1930’s it descends nearly 2000 meters. Described as ”the most dramatic road in Africa” in it entirety – and drama it was – continuous, curving and switchback upon switchback and then climbing again up in hairpin bends. All on gravel, contrary to our map. We stop counting at 12 X up and 13 X down.

Full concentration was required nonstop six hours for a measly 189 Kms in an ever changing landscape and strange abodes of habitation; we now see the sand stone houses of the Tigrai region - a strange perception of stability in Africa! And still every hill, mountain side and valley is terraced, ploughed and planted with tef for injera (the local bread–pancake) or beans.

The aircon packs up today in the heat. (Marc and Lorna, have you taken off the BAIT tape off Mad1 today?!!!!)

In Shire a much needed rest was called for in a hotel. Slowly we start to appreciate the relative luxury of leaving the tent closed, although we miss our bed on top of Konstantin which is a 100 x better than what is offered in the hotels.

Gondar and the Simien Mountains

Every night it rains heavily and we are grateful for the good tarred roads ahead to Gondar. Here we effortlessly met up with a guide ‘Ababa’ who brought us to the 18^th century Debre Birhan Selassi, the famous church with prolific paintings and the well known ‘Mona Lisa’ portrait of Maria. Lammergeier roost in the huge ancient juniper trees of the quiet church grounds which is enclosed by a high stone wall.

The next day saw us at Fasil Ghebbi, the Royal Enclosure. A walled park of 70,000sqm in the centre of town that had once upon a time six castles plus several smaller buildings on its grounds. When wandering through the grounds with vivid explanations from Ababa (rendering ‘truths’ much debated by archeologists and historians) it is possible to imagine the ancient culture that had its highlight here and is called the ‘Camelot of Africa!’

You are drastically reminded of the present at the front entrance with the ‘skedunk’ of a taxi and the poverty of the present-day inhabitants and the begging kids, only kept at bay by Ababa. The next highlight of Gondar was Fasilidas bath in the lower part of the city. A river filling an oversized Olympic pool on the holiest days when white robed citizens and priests celebrate from and around a two storey building (castle).

The Simien Mountains

Our map shows tar onwards up to Axum but that was wishful thinking. Fair gravel, soaked by rain, slowed proceedings. In Debark we have to get the obligatory ‘scout’ with a gun (AK-47) and the entrance permit for the Simien Mountains, the highest mountain range of Ethiopia, a hiker’s paradise. Again it had rained the night before, and we are quickly in the clouds as we gain in altitude on drivable gravel in this National Park which is inhabited by farmers with terraced fields to every accessible peak.

Soon our scout shouts: “baboons” and points to the Gelada (red heart baboons) which were disguised amongst goats in the mist. Further on we encounter large herds of up to 400 of this grazing and amazingly vocal monkey.

Again, we are the only self drive vehicle and are a curiosity for every Ethiopian. We proceed close to the highest peaks, still hidden in clouds, where our scout questions every villager on the whereabouts of the rare and endangered Walia Ibex. Everybody shakes their head, - none seem to be around.

So we carry on and rounding the next corner . . . . . . . . . . . there they are:

Five magnificent Ibex males! (Steinbock) Resting in the mist, quite close and not shy at all.Their horns are huge. Four females accompany them.

Mission accomplished for our scout and he goes to sleep in Konstantin’s cozy back seat.

The clouds open up on our way back and we can see how magnificent this ‘giant’s chessboard’ is, with glimpses of endless formations of mountain peaks.

We take shelter in a Hotel in Debark and have given up camping altogether as there are no facilities at all.

Clockwise into the historical circuit

Moenco (Toyota Ethiopia) in Addis, with a spotless workshop, was kind enough to analyze the roar Konstantin was emitting and decided (against Uli’s recommendation) that the gasket between engine and manifold had blown. It is a half days work to open up and another half day to assemble. As we turned the key in the evening, the same roar was still there. So, unfortunately they had to do the same exercise again. The only difference, they had to take the turbo out as well. Half a day out- half a day in. Turning the key the second time round, Konstantin was his old self again.

The following morning we left Addis on the northern route to reach Bahir Dar on Lake Tana, which is a two days drive. Over and over again we feast our eyes on this fertile green country side and cultivation is intensive, continuous.

If there is a stoney patch in between, hundreds of cows and sheep are grazing.

The highlight on that ca 600Km is the spectacular Blue Nile Canyon. It can easily be compared with the Fish River in Namibia or the Grand Canyon in the USA. The only difference; we had a breathtaking tar road through this. The spectacular pass, built by the Japanese and finished in 2004, hair pinned its way down and up the gorge with over 1300 meter dropping and climbing in altitude. Due to the heavy rains the river was in flood with muddy brown water - a magnificent site.

As overnight stop we wanted to reach Debre Markos. Some 20 Km before this village, we were stopped dead by the flooding Chemoga Shet River together with ca 100 stranded vehicles. The spillway crossing was blocked by a truck, a bus and a passenger car. As the rain increased and it was rather late already, Uli made a deal with a brave local to show us the depth and strength of flow through to the opposite side.

Amidst much cheering and egging on (by non drivers!), Konstantin made it bravely through, being the only vehicle daring to do this stretch of 400 meters of swirling, rushing brown waters, passing the stuck vehicles with mm’s to spare before going over the edge. Overwhelming waving and shouting was received on the successful crossing, (this time by the drivers as well!). We were surprised nobody took our example and followed - and we missed ‘Mad One’ sorely, who surely would have braved the flood!?

The next day we visited the Blue Nile falls close to Bahir Dar. We had to walk a 30 minutes track; crossing the beautiful ancient Agam Dildi Bridge built by the Portuguese in the 1620’s to reach the view point opposite the falls.

The falls were once described as the most spectacular falls in Africa until the Italians spoilt this by diverting the water for a hydro power plant. They were once falling on a width ca 200 meters and 40 meters depth. In our opinion no comparison to the Vic Falls- but we could only use our imagination to visualize its former beauty.

Bahir Dar, a vacation city for the locals, offers a mixture between African and ‘modern’ facilities. Its streets are wide boulevards. The recommended campsite was nothing more than a mud hole. The decision was easy, camping was abandoned and we took lodging in the hotel. For the next day we booked a boat drive to visit some of the monasteries on or next to Lake Tana. The monasteries cannot be compared with a European cloister but more to a (Einsiedelei) hermitage, a small building for prayers at chosen spots. It was taken over by followers and was decorated with remarkable ecclesiastical batik paintings. They were mostly from the 13th century but have been redone and renovated in the 19th- 20th century. Motives were repetitive in each monastery, artists differed slightly.

Unfortunately on these visits you are surrounded by ‘guides’, kids, beggars, who think you should dish out all of your belongings in particular money.

After our return we changed Hotels as the plumbing in the present one just disintegrated and we had been promised that it would have been repaired in the evening – a mammoth, futile task in these parts of the world.