The Sultanate of Oman

Bordered by the UEA, Saudi Arabia and Yemen, Oman's capital was originally Zanzibar. His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said, came into power after deposing his father in a coup in 1970 and has since transformed the country using its wealth of oil reserves. Its hard to imagine that 40 years ago there was only 600meters of tarred road as we race along the 3 lane highway towards Muscat. 

11 October – Dead Sea

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To reach the Dead Sea you need to first travel south to Aqaba, which is a tax free city on the Red Sea. By now I was used to asking directions, it was quite surreal getting the info from owners of cars registered in Palestine, Iraq, Syria and Saudi, all neighbours of Jordan.

Leaving the Red Sea, we head north again for about 200km. There is very little of note on this road, aside from one or two areas that have been cultivated. Dotted along the road are lookout posts manned by the army, I suppose the proximity to the West Bank and Israel has something to do with it.

As we descend the temperature rises until it feels like an oven and the haze created by the evaporating sea comes into view. I must say the Dead Sea is a lot bluer than I had imagined and the Red Sea not as red (only joking).

We had a reservation at the RJCN chalets, but they looked pretty rundown and they said we needed to wait until 3 to check in, so we headed towards the Dead Sea Hotels. We decided to use Lorna’s birthday as an excuse and splurge on the brand new 5 star Jordan Dead Sea Royal Crowne. 

Now I am not one for these fancy, glitzy places, but we really enjoyed the luxury and pampering that you can only get at these types of ‘joints’. They even carried our towels and complimentary water down the beach to our waiting sun recliners.

Swimming in the Dead Sea, or more accurately bobbing like a cork is a rather strange feeling, like bouncing on a bungy cord. Its impossible to fully submerge yourself in the oily water, actually as soon as you lift your legs, you end up floating on the surface. 

We had to try smearing ourselves with the famed Dead Sea mud. We will probably get bilharzia before it cures everything is purported to. 

Like all the Rift valley lakes, the Dead Sea is shrinking. The water level has already dropped by 30 meters and continues to recede by a meter a year, due to the damming of the River Jordan, the huge demand for water by all the massive hotels and the potash industry. They reckon that unless something is done the Dead Sea will dry up within 50 years.

We started our final day in Jordan, eating Norwegian Salmon and fresh croissants and then lazed besides the pool and had a final mud pack, before heading out to the airport to wait ……….. for our 1am flight to Muscat.

10 October – Wadi Rum

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The Jordanians pride themselves as being honest, so when the petrol jockey ripped me at the garage, I was pissed, especially as when I filled the tank the first time, I got the impression they wanted me to pay the litre amount instead of the lesser Dinar amount, but I was not sure. On this occasion they started filling without zeroing the meter. The attendant stood in front of the pump and started speaking rubbish. On complaining he handed me back probably half of what he stole. The amount was small, but I was cross for getting stung and because we have really enjoyed not having to look over our shoulders the whole time. I suppose there is always one to mess it up for everyone.

We met our Bedouin guide, Abdullah and headed out into the desert in his square shaped Landcruiser station wagon (Two models earlier than ours, but as strong as ever). 

The Rum Mountains rise literally vertically out of the flat sand plains. It was interesting to see that some walls of rock were flat, as if built or cut by man. We can only imagine that similar walls of rock formed the basis of some of the tomb facades we had seen at Petra. 

Some looked like those sand castles we used to make on the beach or wax from a candle that has dripped down a bottle. 

Many of the rocks have engravings on them that have been attributed to the Nabetaens. We were in our element, enjoying the peace and silence that you can only experience in places like these.

The Bedouin are proud desert people, living a nomadic lifestyle to find water and grazing for their herds. 

As with indigenous people all over the world, many have given up the old ways and moved to the city. I suppose its hard to blame them, life must be pretty tough in the desert. 

Abdullah’s father is one of only 7 families still living in Wadi Rum, but it takes the financial support of his children to allow him to continue.

Over lunch, which was spread out on a canvas sheet on the ground, Abdullah answered our questions about Bedouin life and the changes he has experienced. We detected a yearning to return, but the world has moved on……

As the sun dipped in the sky and the colors changed to burnt orange, Abdullah lit a small fire and brewed sweet sage tea. 

We sat in silence each with our own thoughts until the last rays retreated below the horizon. As we were leaving he gave me a headscarf I had admired earlier, telling me to think of the Bedouin’s desert when I wore it. The cynic in me may have attributed it as a ploy to increase his tip, but I got the feeling the gift was sincere.

Dinner consisted of chicken, potatoes and other veg that had been cooked in a hole in the ground, and then covered by a blanket and sand. Maybe it was the place, but it was the best meal we had had in Jordan.

We had a cold night in a tent made of coarse, rough camel hair. So cold that Lorna and I ended up in the one single bed, sharing our blankets and body heat.

All too quickly it was time to leave, we set out on foot leaving Abdullah to pick us up later in his old Cruiser.

Laurence of Arabia's house

08 October - Dana to Petra

In Turkey we got into the habit of going to bed after 11 and waking at about 07h30, but in  Jordan we quickly revert to rising earlier. It was magical sitting on our balcony, the sheer cliffs above and below, watching the sky slowly turning pink.

Yesterday we dipped out on seeing Nubian Ibex, so we decided to return to the Rammana area, for another opportunity. Lorna was quick to spot a male, but before I could focus my bino’s he had disappeared. I had seen the Jackal sized Sand Fox yesterday, which Lorna had missed, so I suppose its one all.

We had been told that we would be extremely fortunate to see the Ibex, as there is only a worldwide population of between 1500 and 2000, of which there are approximately 200 in Jordan. Lorna left for the bird hide while I lingered, hoping for a second chance. After about 5 minutes, I heard some rock falling. Scanning the sheer rock face I first picked up a female, working her way down the precipice. She was followed by 2 sub adults who where mock fighting, rearing up on their hind legs and lunging at each other. Following a short distance behind and in a more sedate manner, another female followed. The whole time I was wishing I had some way to call Lorna. I enjoyed the sighting for a good 15 minutes, before they disappeared behind a large dome shaped rock. Fortunately Lorna followed my directions and managed to get to see them before they descended into the valley and out of view.

Even though it is only 60 k’s to Petra, we arrived fairly late. Fortunately our hotel proved the guidebooks wrong. We had a lovely room overlooking Petra town. However, one thing the books are spot on about is that Jordanians eat for sustenance alone. We can see why. The food is boring and bland. Our early dinner consisted of a plate of rice and some dry pieces of chicken that cost the equivalent of R250. I suppose the Bedouin lifestyle is not conducive to gourmet cooking.

Early the next morning we were at the ticket office at the entrance to the ancient city of Petra, built by the Nabataeans who came from the Arab Peninsula 2200 years ago. In 106AD, Petra was annexed to the Roman Empire, but it continued to flourish for a number of years. Gradually it was abandoned during the 14^th century and was completely lost to the west until in 1812 when a Swiss traveler rediscovered it.

The long walk to reach the rose red city passes through the Siq, a narrow opening in the vertical walls of sandstone that rise 80 meters above and seem to close in around you.
















As you descend each bend in the rock, it reveals more of the beauty, until suddenly before you, Petra’s most iconic site looms through the chasm, the Treasury or Al- Khazneh.

This 43 m high, 30 m wide facade has been carved into the rock, like a reverse relief. This elaborate façade from the 1^st century BC was the tomb of an important Nabataean king.

Words cannot describe Petra’s carved mountains, however for me, its breath taking colourful sandstone nearly surpasses its architecture. All shades of red, pink, ochre, black and white are revealed by the sculpturing hands of man and the elements.

Petra is a huge archaeological site covering a vast area, making it impossible to see everything in a few days. Wherever you look the rock has been hewn and shaped by man. The Street of Facades, leads to the 7000 seat theater and the Royal Tombs, all cut into the rock.

The tombs are massive, some reaching 17 meters deep into the rock.

The setting sun turns the East Cliff a fiery red and due to its prominence was used for the tombs of the most important Royalty.

The Nabataeans not only carved they were master masons too. They built a wide flagstone paved Colonnade Street lined with shops that leads to the massive main temple, Qasr-al-Bint.

Sadly, earthquakes have damaged most of this huge structure, but the sections that remain give you an idea of the scale of the place.

To really see and experience Petra, you need to work up a sweat. We took the 2,2 km, 800 steps (that’s equal to a 70 floor high building) that lead to the magnificent Monastery. Perched high on the mountain, this façade is 50x50 meters, with both the doorway and the urn on top 10 m high.

Obviously, Petra was a lot wetter 2200 years ago, because great care has been taken to divert rainwater away from the various facades, plus many of the statues featured fountains. Actually all the side canyons leading into Wadi Mousa had been dammed to control flooding and the Mousa River was diverted and dammed, both for water storage and to prevent flooding.

Surprisingly having spent 10 hours on our feet on the first day, we felt good on our second morning as we started the climb up to The High Place of Sacrifice.

Scenically this was probably the prettiest, not that this Processional Route was short on tombs and other stone carvings.

Being buggers for punishment, we decided to head back (bringing our tally for the day to 27k’s) for the late afternoon light, to try to capture the majesty and beauty of this place. Getting up early and leaving late, together with the 70% decline in tourism, due to the Syrian situation, meant we had the place nearly to ourselves.

Lorna hooked Petra off her bucket list and added one to her age, plus we discovered Baba Ganouj, a dish we love. No complaints here:)
 

3 October – Madaba to Dana Biosphere Reserve

Arriving late meant that we ended up travelling to Madaba, which is about 30km's from the airport, when it was dark. We really missed ‘Richard’ our Turkish gps. We checked into the Mariam Hotel which is supposed to be the very best Madaba has to offer and one of the better hotels in Jordan. We certainly hope that the guidebooks are wrong………… While it is not bad, it certainly isn’t great.

Madaba is called the city of mosaics.

One in particular, the remains of a map dating from the 600’s depict the Holy Land from Lebanon in the north to the Nile Delta in the south and the Mediterranean coast to the desert.

The mosaic is in St Georges Church, a small Byzantine Greek Orthodox church, which was built over the ruins of a previous church. It is believed the original was made up of 2 million mosaics and measured 15,6x 6m.

After changing some money (eish R12.50 to the Jordanian Dinar) and filling with petrol, which cost about R8/liter (a lot cheaper than the R18-19 in Turkey) we head south on the Kings Highway. This is the ancient trade route, so it passes through a number of dusty towns, filled with cars, people and livestock.

Its quite the norm to double or even treble park, leaving very little space for cars. The vast majority of woman have their heads covered and wear a Burka and a long coat.

The road snakes it way through the center of the country in roughly a north-south direction. Jordan is the forth driest country in the world. The area we traverse is very mountainous, with scree covered slopes.

Stopping on route we buy a very colorful carpet from Iraq. Apparently up until 30 years ago little to no handicrafts existed in Jordan, so most of what is on sale is from neighbouring countries particularly Syria, but also Turkey.

The halfway point between Madaba and Petra is Karak. The Karak castle, built in 1142, dominates the skyline. Built on a promontory with sheer cliffs on the three sides by the Crusaders.

The Arabic signposting and our poor map mean that every so often I need to stop and ask directions. Fortunately, most Jordanians understand a little English. We were offered tea, coffee and even end up listening to the Ode, a string instrument with a deep bowl shaped body, being played by two young guys in a wedding shop, en route. By and large the people are friendly and helpful, although we did have an incident where some schoolboys tried to pull off our sunglasses and one even tried to pull down Lorna’s top, which pissed her off. We can only imagine it was schoolboy pranks.

Bedouin Camp

We arrive in the late afternoon at Dana Biosphere Reserve, the largest reserve in Jordan. Set up with aid from USAID and contributions from a number of countries, under the auspices of the Royal Jordanian Society for Nature.

The guesthouse has only 9 rooms and has spectacular views of Wadi Dana, hundreds of meters below. We got to hear the Striped Hyena on the first evening and saw a Griffin wheeling in the thermals. The first evenings sunset was magnificent swirls of dusty pinks, oranges and greys.

It was fantastic to hear the silence of the wide-open spaces.

The early morning air was cool, with a dense band of cloud lying over the Dead Sea in the distance.

We arrange to do a short trail in the park from the Rammana campsite.

Unfortunately, as with Turkey, breakfast only starts at 08h30, which means the best light was gone before we started walking.

None the less, we managed to see a number of birds, like Sinai Rose-pink Finch, Blackcap Warbler, Bulbul, Syrian Serrin, Whitethroat and others we could not identify.