R WE MAD?: Malawi, The warm heart of Africa 9-18 November

Malawi had us sweating for the first time on this trip. What a change in weather condition. 38°C in the shade next to Lake Nyasa (Lake Malawi)

The fishermen, next door to our campsite, kept us entertained with their preparations to go fishing after dark with precariously mounted Petromax lamps.precariously. Every time a boat came back during the night, shouting and haggling for the catch ensued. Needless to say, we did not get much sleep.

Then we found Makuzi Beach Camp, a piece of paradise.

We wanted to stay forever, but the rain started after the third day and as it looked like it would carry on for weeks, we packed up and headed south to Senga Bay.

We visited the Red Zebra, which is a tropical fish farm, concentrating on the export of fish, mostly Cichlids, out of Lake Malawi.

The Lake has over 1200 different types of Cichlids, with new ones still being discovered. The colours of these fish are mind boggling.

That night we visited the northern end of the bay with its famous Steps campsite, which normally is the hub of east African travelers - but it was empty. This gave us the authority, being the only paying guests, to demand that all loud music and TV at the pub had to be switched off. Thereafter we could enjoy the bliss of this 3Ha facility.

Next stop was Liwonde National Park. Mvuu, the main camp in the centre of the park had been block booked for three days , so we were directed to Chinguni Hills Lodge. A beautiful spot overlooking the Shire River swamps.

Elephants demolishing a baobab

It was extremely warm and driving and spotting game was strenuous, although we saw what we came for, the graceful sable antelopes.

Beers at the lodge were warm and we had to use Konstantin’s fridge to cool them down. During the night it was a constant pilgrimage to the showers to cool off.

Next morning we made a beeline for the refreshing Zomba Plateau, a hiker’s paradise.