The tribes of Oman have been at war for an age, so it is not
surprising that the main historical sites are forts. On route we visit Nahkal
Fort. Its dimly lit interior is relatively cool and being high on the hill has
commanding views of the surrounding countryside.
Wherever we travel new roads, schools, medical centers and
other infrastructure is being built.
Even the smallest village has a school and
medical facility. We turn off the highway and head up Wadi Bani Awf and Wadi
Bilad Sayt, which winds their way through the vertical mountains.
Work has
begun in preparation for tarmac, but we still are able to enjoy the gravel
roads that defy the imagination. How they built these passes I do not know,
sadly the hard surface may make it easier to travel, but I can imagine the
havoc that will be wrecked on the countryside in the process.
On route we pass
the Green Mountain, Jebel Akhdar the scene of the
conflict between Omani forces loyal to the Sultan (aided by British) and Saudi
backed rebel forces of the inland Iman of Oman between 1957 and 1959.
Today
the area has been declared a conservation area, to protect the fragile desert
ecosystem. The road continues to climb through the 300km long Al Hagar range
towards our overnight stop on Jebel Shams the highest mountain in Oman. The
area is known as the Arabian Grand Canyon, it is certainly impressive but does
not live up to its American namesake in my opinion.
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