Thursday, July 2, 2009

Finally the Ryder's hit the road for real

Finally after months of planning we leave a damp Johannesburg behind us. Before we know it, we were at Beit Bridge. We have used this border post between SA & Zimbabwe many times, so psych ourselves for long queues and unfriendly officials. But, we are through in 45 minutes. Is this a good omen for the trip?
We share the Lion & Elephant motel, which nestles under huge riverine trees on the banks of the sandy Bubye River, with one other vehicle. In the past this popular overnight stop would be packed to capacity. As we make our way across Zim, as Zimbabwe is popularly known, we get the feeling that we are traveling through a vast deserted factory. Grass grows through unused infrastructure, the paint of the abandoned shops is discoloured and peeling. One gets the impression that if the light switch was not broken the entire country would be in darkness.
We push on to Kariba where we overnight. The place is deserted, even the street vendors, carvers and stone masons have packed up and left. On route we stop in Harare, the capital, to buy our Comesa third party insurance which will cover us through all the countries we visit, making it one less hassle at the border crossings. Here and in other places where we do get to speak to the locals, we see some of the Zim we know. It is a relief to see that although their country is in tatters, the people are still as friendly and genuine as always…………..maybe there is still hope for Zimbabwe after all.
What a wonderful feeling one gets at the start of an adventure like this. The anticipation of experiences unknown as well as the familiar. Its also a time when firsts come fast & thick. Our first day, first police stop, first 1000km, second police stop, first border, third police stop, first speeding fine, forth police stop, first bush ablution, etc,etc. Forgive us, we have stopped counting police stops, but believe me when I say there are plenty. But there is one first that we cannot wait for, the one that I believe that all African travelers would rate right up there as the one of the great experiences…….. the first braai over an open log fire, watching the sun sink into the dusty horizon. When you smell the wood smoke, you know this is what it is all about. Posted Marc & Lorna

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