Ngorongoro

It’s amazing how TV programs and travel guides can distort the truth. We had created an image of Ngoro in our minds and no matter how many times that we were warned, we could not wait to visit. So I suppose we had only ourselves to blame.
The park officials did not even blush at the exorbitant fee they charged, US$480 buys entry for 2 and a single visit to the crater floor. As we drove through the gate we were confronted by the pinkish red dust churned up by the hundreds of car, trucks and buses that share the ‘park’ road. Tour operator’s, particularly Leopard Tours (Spread the word, Do not use them) drive like maniacs, seldom making space for the oncoming vehicle, forcing us to play chicken, thereby slowing them, at least slightly. Ngorongoro Crater has only conservation area status, therefore the wildlife has to share the area not only with tourists, but approximate 65 000 Maasai and 400 000 head of their livestock. The Tanzanian government does not appear to have the political will to decide one way or the other, even though approximately 500 000 international visitors, each paying a minimum of US$ 200 in entry fees alone, visit this world heritage site, annually. The sustainability of the ecosystem is under such severe pressure that Unesco has issued an ultimatum, either reduce the people, both Maasai & tourist, or loose world heritage status. Time will tell.

We continue the climb to the crater rim, I feel for our precious Cruiser, the corrugations threaten to shake it to pieces. I need to concentrate fully on driving, fortunately our ‘digs’ for the next 2 days, the fabulously opulent And Beyond’s Ngorongoro Crater lodge is fairly close to the entry point.

This epitome of luxury is perched on edge of the crater rim and has a view of the crater form wherever you look, including the loo. Our eyes cannot settle as we try to take in all the detail, the style an eclectic mix that has been described as Maasai meets Versailles. But words cannot describe the place, suffice to say ‘it’s a feast for the eyes’ and our stomachs, we were soon to find out.

We awoke early the next morning for our drive into the crater. Mist hung heavily making the montane forest that grows on the rim look like an enchanted garden, the piece that is not covered in dust that is. The descent from the rim at 2 300 to the crater floor 600 meter lower, is once again a dusty affair. We get to see reasonable quantities of game, but only add Black Rhino and Golden Backed Jackal to our list. Fortunately our ranger is a good birder, which added greatly to our visit and list. We head back to the lodge, via the one way ascent road, unfortunately disappointed, the number of tour vehicles ( up to 120 have been reported at a single Leopard sighting), the Maasai salesmen pestering you to buy imitation ’artifacts’ while you’re trying to view game on the poor roads and the overflowing sewage from the toilets, make Ngorongoro nothing but a rip off.