30 June-3 July

Route: Patricks Pt SP- Crescent City-Grants Pass-Medford-Prospect-Crater Lake NP-Diamond Lake-Toketee Falls SP-Roseburg

Driving through the northern coastal region of California and into Oregon, one can understand why our forefathers logged without consideration for the future. We seem to drive through an endless forest, along the coast mostly Redwoods, but once we start to head inland the forests become mixed Pine & other coniferous trees.

Along the way we stopped at the Del Norte SP were there is a viewing area were Roosevelt Elk, another species that was close to extinction, normally are seen in the grassy meadow. Being true Americans they were nowhere to be found, I guess we were too early. We felt like having breakfast on the beach, so drove the 8 miles through the dark Redwood forest to an area known as the Golden Bluff. At the entrance they recommended the fern trail, “it’s a little wet, but we will enjoy it”.

A little wet is an understatement, the icy river flowing through the gulch(river valley) was flowing from bank to bank. We didn’t go too far, but the fern covered banks were really magnificent. We returned to our car, made breakfast and headed, coffee in hand to sit on the beach. Along the way we chanced upon 2 Elk males grazing in the waterlogged grasslands, so good that we never got to the beach

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We skirted Crescent City, heading inland to Oregon. New state, new rules, the first being that the public are not allowed to pump gas in Oregon, one of only two states. Also the fine for littering is R50 000, up from a mere R7 500 in California. We spend our first night in the ‘new’ state in the Grants Pass SP, their facilities are far superior and half the price of California, they even allow unlimited free showers………things are looking up. We took a long walk along the fast flowing Rogue River, which is very popular for rafting. The well-maintained path all along the river goes on for miles. It really is wonderful to be able to walk in such beautiful, yet lonely surroundings, without fear of attack and absolutely no litter. We South Africans have forgotten what it feels like, not to have to be constantly vigilant.

As usual we were first out of camp, our destination today is Crater Lake NP, but first we need to do some house keeping. Lorna has her haircut and we restock the larder, before heading out. Other than the couple of small towns along the route, we drive in an endless forest, entering the park via the south entrance. Normally when you are relatively close to the parks and sometimes near towns, you can tune to 1610mhz on the radio, which gives you some local info. We learn that only one camp is open and part of the rim road is closed due to snow. Unperturbed we book in and head for our allocated site……. It must have been under a meter under snow, with just the top of the table and dustbin visible. Driving around the campsite, we soon realize that the majority of sites are either snowed in or wet. We take a chance and manage to secure a relatively snow free RV site, just up Lorna’s alley.

We also soon realize that addition to the cold, swarms of mozzies are going to test our perseverance. But we have a lake to see. As we crest the crater rim, in front of us is the most unbelievable blue coloured lake we have ever seen. Lorna says it’s a royal blue, I think it’s a deep turquoise, what we can agree on is that it’s the most unbelievable colour. The brilliant white of the snow on the rim seems to further enhance it, especially in the bright afternoon sunshine.

Once again we need to try to make a phone call, as usual we are unsuccessful, but worse still, when we come outside the sky has turn dark grey and the water a deep petrol blue, this time we both agree….and I did not take a photo, before the change.

It rained during the night, but unbelievable even though the temperature drops to 32F, Lorna was not cold. The clouds have dropped down low over the lake, there will be no photos today.

Crater Lake is the deepest fresh water lake in N America (592m) and apparently, the purest large body of water in the world, I am sure the American’s make these things up. The lake rests inside a caldera, formed approx. 7700 years ago, when the 3600 m high walls of Mt Mazama left after a major volcanic eruption, collapsed. Apparently ash and pumice, 5 x that of the 1980 Mt St Helens eruption, so great that if you spread it evenly across the state of Oregon, it would form a layer 20cm thick.

We drive the section of the rim road that is open, there is an icy breeze, but every now and then the sky opens just a little, but we never get to see that beautiful blue again.

Our route takes us past Diamond lake & then onto another ‘All American Highway’, it really is beautiful. The road wind through emerald green forests and crosses many fast flowing, crystal clear streams. Ever so often a sigh indicates yet another waterfall. If you stopped at each one the trip would take a week.

We stopped for tea at Watson Falls, which is small steam that cascades down and over moss covered rocks, and lunch at Toketee Falls, which drops into a deep blue pool. As we loose altitude the weather improves dramatically, the sunlight accentuating the colours and adding a sparkle to the water. Water is diverted in a Redwood stave pipe to provide hydroelectric power generation at Toketee.

We stop along the way to watch a few fishermen, huge Spring Chinook Salmon, jump in the water. The last 40 or so miles are alongside the North Umpqua River, said to be extremely clean water, with a healthy fish population. It would be great to hike the N Umpqua trail, which winds for 85 miles, with campsite ever so often, maybe someday in the future. We decide on a RV park just outside Roseburg, it is so good that we decide to spend 2 nights camped next to the N Umpqua, just above the confluence with the South Umpqua.

Tomorrow is 4 of July, Independence day, it should be fun trying to find a place to stay, it seems that every American celebrates by going away with the family for the week end.