The endless forests continue, I know nothing about the trees of the US, however I could see more Oak species, especially along the rivers, as we drove from central Oregon back towards the w coast at Coos Bay. Gone were the rugged rocky cliffs of the sw coast, replaced by rolling white sand dunes, very much like those near Swakopmund, in Namibia. Being the 4th July, we anticipated a lot of people, but fortunately, campsites are plentiful and the ATV types who love this area, seem to hang out together, each site resembling a 4-wheeler bike salesroom.
We decided on a campsite in the Oregon Dunes NRA, sheltered from the wind and it was quiet. The 5k Waxy Myrtle trail to the beach, produced 2 new mammals, Raccoon feeding on the marsh edge and two Nutria, a species introduced from South America, by the fur trade during the 1930, they have become a pest as they devour the natural water plants allowing invasive species like Parrotfeather, to take over and strangle the waterways. This large rodent, about the size of an otter, has a shaggy brown coat, with a white muzzle and smooth tail, like a dog.
The walk ended on a long white sandy beach, where a pod of seals was lazing in the sun and beautiful thick grasses waving in the breeze, at the crest of the dunes. A large area is cordoned off annually to allow the natural vegetation and wildlife a chance to recover, but especially to give the threatened Snowy Plover undisturbed nesting sites.
Continuing north, the rolling dunes give way to long coral pink beaches. Wildlife is plentiful and we get to see seals, sea lion and many new varieties of seabirds, all constantly squabbling for their patch on the high, exposed rock faces, just off shore. Picturesque old lighthouses dot the coastline, still warning sailors, today.
Apparently Gray whales migrate along the coast on the annual voyage of 10 000miles, but we are too late, hopefully we should see them in Alaska, where they spend summer. It is unbelievable how many State, Federal and national parks and recreation areas there are in Oregon, hardly a mile passes where you do not see a sign for a campsite, view point, trail head or visitors centre along the way.
These in addition to the cycle route that runs the entire length of the Oregon coast, more impressive is how well utilized these facilities are, and they all operate on the honour system, amazing. Once again the weak sunshine is not enough to warm us along the coast, but as we start to head inland the temperature rises. Our first port of call is REI, the outdoor chain in the US. My mattress has a slow leak so I returned it and when these guys say they have a 100% satisfaction guarantee, they mean it. Needless to say it was immediately exchanged, for a new one, no questions asked.
We left our camp at the Champoeg, pronounced Shampoo-ey, about 15km’s outside Portland, a little later than normal, as Lorna wanted to exchange some clothes she had bought and the majority of the shops only open at 9:30-10:00.
Just beyond the suburbs of Portland the fruit farms and wineries start.
As we had a little time to kill, so we stopped at a Blueberry farm and picked a pound of juicy berries, for $1. The whole system is based on trust…… a sign advertizing the fruit, with cost, instructions on where to pick, as well as a scale, calculator & box for the cash or cheque, on a table on the side of the road, magic!
We have not been able to send emails for the last while, so we stopped at the local library and in two ticks we were registered as guests, able to use all the facilities, still can’t send though. What a library, big comfortable sofas overlooking the gardens, acres of books, magazines, dvds, even a coffee bar, you really have to ask yourself, “what has happened to South Africa?”. Also wherever you go there is always a special program for the kids, here they could register, collect an info pack & then select a free book and at the parks, they have an educational junior ranger program, where once they have completed some tasks & answer questions on it, they receive a park badge. Needless to say the kids love it.
The scenic road towards Mt.Hood passes through little towns with names like Boring, Zigzag and Rhododendron. The visitor’s centre recommended visiting the historic Timberline hotel at the base of Mt.Hood.
I am not keen and as always in these situations, it turns out great. The forestry department built the hotel in 1936-37, as part of Pres. Roosevelt’s program to get Americans working during the great depression. The artisans, using local timber, mainly Douglas Fir, Oregon Oak & Proderosa Pine, hand cut and shaped the massive beams, rafters etc that are part of this hotel.
Huge 750 square beams, pinned with timber pegs, span between rock piers. The roof, which is covered in timber shingles, is supported on 6 hexagonal timber piers, more than 900 in diameter, all crafted by one man for $25 dollars each.
It must have taken him months. Blacksmiths hand made all the steel, from door latches and hinges to huge chandeliers and fire grates.
Best of all nothing has been changed, the hotel still operates today as it did in 1937, only the textiles has been replaced, but with handmade, exact replicas of the original. To the north stands Mt.Hood and the south Mt. Jefferson & the 3 sisters, all snow covered extinct volcano’s, with the classic conical shape.
Arriving rather late, we checked into the first state park, Viento, just outside the town of Hood River, a pretty noisy place, wedged between the highway & the railway line. I suppose you cannot win them all. Our last morning in Oregon was spent driving along the Columbia River, that forms the border with Washington State, to the north.
Happy Birthday Tyron!!!!!
No comments:
Post a Comment