We took an early morning stroll through the charming village
that was just starting to wake. In a side alley we bought purple figs and
bunches of grapes which will become the measure against which we will judge all
fruit in the future. Dean and Dani will remember the figs we picked in Spain,
well these were even tastier.
The new coastal highway is carved into the sheer mountains that drop into the azure Mediterranean.
Turkey’s longest sandy beach Patara on route to Fethiye is
at times off limits due to its importance as a nesting ground for Loggerhead
Sea Turtles. But in September the mostly over weight sun worshippers each with
two white recliners and a colourful beach umbrella resemble a human version of
a gannet rookery that stretches as far as the eye can see. We didn’t stop long
enough to take pic.
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| The recently restored City Hall |
But Patara’s real gem is the well preserved Lycian site
dating back to the 2nd century. Patara was the birthplace of St
Nicholas of Santa Claus fame. Not only have large sections withstood the
ravages of time, but it is undergoing a 6 million lire restoration.
The
City Hall has been painstakingly reconstructed and gives an idea of the grand scale
of these cities as well as the way they constructed the buildings.
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| Seating for members |
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| Lorna at Patara |
Fethiye, like so much of Turkey has a tired rather faded
look about it. It looks as though someone left the brake on back in the 80’s,
which only recently is slowly being released. New highways are the norm,
farmers appear to be adding to orchards and apartment style complexes are being
built. Our hotel is on Calis Plaji (beach) which has a wide promenade lined
with hundreds of restaurants and pubs catering to every conceivable taste. It
is very noticeable how popular this area is with the Brits, with pubs serving
Shish Kebabs and spuds, even the menu prices are quoted in sterling.
The normal tourist tours are on offer, one to Seklikant
Gorge takes our fancy. But when we see the pictures filled with queues of
people, cameras at the ready, we decide to give it a miss. But we rise early
and decide to take advantage of the fact, that life only starts to get going at
about ten, and head up to the gorge.
Isn’t amazing how when travelling something happens that
defines the country and the people.
Returning, we decide to stop for a chai, which has become
our daily ritual. As is often the case the seating consists of a number of
raised platforms covered in carpets where you relax propped up on the soft
pillows and you are served on low (250mm) high tables. Before we received our
tea, we were served a plate of fruit. So when the tea arrived I offered to pay,
which the smiling owner refused. A few minutes later she brought a couple
of what I think was Karob pods.
These dried and shrivelled pods have a slightly
sweet date type of flavour, which I really enjoyed. We were obviously feeling
guilty having eaten so much and only being charged R4 for our tea, so we asked
to buy some pears and figs. By this time a granny and another younger women had
joined the young owner. Smiling they again refused payment, instead offering us
a taste of a fruit we have not seen before. Desperate to compensate them for
the generosity we ordered Sis Kebab on condition they took payment. Agreeing, 8
Woolies size chicken kebabs were grilled.
Once again the owner brought us
something extra to try, this time the most delicious bees wax comb dripping
with dark amber honey. Finally we departed, the 3 ladies smiling from ear to
ear and us feeling blessed by the experience, which epitomised the friendly and
generous Turks. A moment in life that will be remembered and cherished
forever.…..
On our final evening in Fethiye, we took the Dolmus boat
from Calis beach to the harbour, were we strolled through the colourful
markets, and admired the moored gullets before dinner. The 30 minute trip back
with the lights twinkling on shore was quiet magical.
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