R WE MAD?: 08 October - Dana to Petra

In Turkey we got into the habit of going to bed after 11 and waking at about 07h30, but in Jordan we quickly revert to rising earlier. It was magical sitting on our balcony, the sheer cliffs above and below, watching the sky slowly turning pink.

Yesterday we dipped out on seeing Nubian Ibex, so we decided to return to the Rammana area, for another opportunity. Lorna was quick to spot a male, but before I could focus my bino’s he had disappeared. I had seen the Jackal sized Sand Fox yesterday, which Lorna had missed, so I suppose its one all.

We had been told that we would be extremely fortunate to see the Ibex, as there is only a worldwide population of between 1500 and 2000, of which there are approximately 200 in Jordan. Lorna left for the bird hide while I lingered, hoping for a second chance. After about 5 minutes, I heard some rock falling. Scanning the sheer rock face I first picked up a female, working her way down the precipice. She was followed by 2 sub adults who where mock fighting, rearing up on their hind legs and lunging at each other. Following a short distance behind and in a more sedate manner, another female followed. The whole time I was wishing I had some way to call Lorna. I enjoyed the sighting for a good 15 minutes, before they disappeared behind a large dome shaped rock. Fortunately Lorna followed my directions and managed to get to see them before they descended into the valley and out of view.

Even though it is only 60 k’s to Petra, we arrived fairly late. Fortunately our hotel proved the guidebooks wrong. We had a lovely room overlooking Petra town. However, one thing the books are spot on about is that Jordanians eat for sustenance alone. We can see why. The food is boring and bland. Our early dinner consisted of a plate of rice and some dry pieces of chicken that cost the equivalent of R250. I suppose the Bedouin lifestyle is not conducive to gourmet cooking.

Early the next morning we were at the ticket office at the entrance to the ancient city of Petra, built by the Nabataeans who came from the Arab Peninsula 2200 years ago. In 106AD, Petra was annexed to the Roman Empire, but it continued to flourish for a number of years. Gradually it was abandoned during the 14^th century and was completely lost to the west until in 1812 when a Swiss traveler rediscovered it.

The long walk to reach the rose red city passes through the Siq, a narrow opening in the vertical walls of sandstone that rise 80 meters above and seem to close in around you.

As you descend each bend in the rock, it reveals more of the beauty, until suddenly before you, Petra’s most iconic site looms through the chasm, the Treasury or Al- Khazneh.

This 43 m high, 30 m wide facade has been carved into the rock, like a reverse relief. This elaborate façade from the 1^st century BC was the tomb of an important Nabataean king.

Words cannot describe Petra’s carved mountains, however for me, its breath taking colourful sandstone nearly surpasses its architecture. All shades of red, pink, ochre, black and white are revealed by the sculpturing hands of man and the elements.

Petra is a huge archaeological site covering a vast area, making it impossible to see everything in a few days. Wherever you look the rock has been hewn and shaped by man. The Street of Facades, leads to the 7000 seat theater and the Royal Tombs, all cut into the rock.

The tombs are massive, some reaching 17 meters deep into the rock.

The setting sun turns the East Cliff a fiery red and due to its prominence was used for the tombs of the most important Royalty.

The Nabataeans not only carved they were master masons too. They built a wide flagstone paved Colonnade Street lined with shops that leads to the massive main temple, Qasr-al-Bint.

Sadly, earthquakes have damaged most of this huge structure, but the sections that remain give you an idea of the scale of the place.

To really see and experience Petra, you need to work up a sweat. We took the 2,2 km, 800 steps (that’s equal to a 70 floor high building) that lead to the magnificent Monastery. Perched high on the mountain, this façade is 50x50 meters, with both the doorway and the urn on top 10 m high.

Obviously, Petra was a lot wetter 2200 years ago, because great care has been taken to divert rainwater away from the various facades, plus many of the statues featured fountains. Actually all the side canyons leading into Wadi Mousa had been dammed to control flooding and the Mousa River was diverted and dammed, both for water storage and to prevent flooding.

Surprisingly having spent 10 hours on our feet on the first day, we felt good on our second morning as we started the climb up to The High Place of Sacrifice.

Scenically this was probably the prettiest, not that this Processional Route was short on tombs and other stone carvings.

Being buggers for punishment, we decided to head back (bringing our tally for the day to 27k’s) for the late afternoon light, to try to capture the majesty and beauty of this place. Getting up early and leaving late, together with the 70% decline in tourism, due to the Syrian situation, meant we had the place nearly to ourselves.