We noticed large numbers of water birds, including the pink backed pelican and were lucky to hook off the black billed barbet, black winged lovebird and the grey woodpecker as lifers. We could arrange it to stay on a nearby ‘hill’ above a ‘recreation resort’ with an outstanding view over the lake, instead of on the lakeshores mud and amidst gawkers. The obligatory guard was snoring under a tree nearby. We enjoyed it so much that Uli donated some precious sickle wood (from Joburg) and some spare ribs (of the same origin) to light our first campfire in this country.
Day of disaster
In Dese we found 'Regular’ and could fill our tanks. We wanted to cross to Mille, situated on the Djibouti main road and then go south to the Awash National park – a trip of ca 460 Km – a hell of task for Ethiopian conditions. The mountainous curving road, partly under construction, winds its way to Kembolcha and turns left into Afar territory. During the morning we experienced oncoming traffic violating many traffic rules, in particular in regard to speeding and cutting corners.
We reduced our speed to not more than 40 km/h, enabling us to counteract this ruthless behaviour. But it was not enough. Ca 5 Km before the town of Bati, known for the biggest camel market in Ethiopia, which takes place every Monday, a Landcruiser bakkie approached us in a double S curve, traveling at high speed on our side of the road. As I could not avoid the oncoming vehicle, I turned slightly to the right to avoid the head on collision and turned to the left, hitting him side ways. We came to a grinding halt as the steering mechanism was snapped off the left wheel.
Needless to mention the anger which bubbled out towards the accused with his uncontrollable driving habit. Rapidly people gathered around the scene. Police were called and they handled the proceedings very bureaucratically, unfriendly and in such a manner, that we decided to phone the German embassy for assistance. We were left standing on the accident scene from 9H00 to 16H30, besides our several requests to move the vehicle off the road.
A hotel owner from Bati, who passed by, offered us the help of a mechanic and accommodation for the night in the Vasco Hotel.
With bush mechanic tricks, a new tyre was fitted and with the effort of three hours of intensive work we managed to pull Konstantin on to the side of the road. He was guarded by two militia policemen for the duration of the night.
The next morning, Kebir, the mechanic with his team, improved the techniques used the evening before and by lunch time Konstantin was in his ‘Garage’.
It needed another 1½ days to patch up Konstantin to such an extend, that with a 50/50 chance we could tackle the 400Km road to Addis. The biggest risk was that some straightened parts on the steering mechanism could break or the repaired radiator could leak again and overheat the engine.
We left Bati early on Wednesday morning with a sour taste in our mouth, GIVE-GIVE was written in capital letters, using our predicament shamelessly to maximum effect for their enrichment!. But thankful for those, which helped sporadically, enabled us to limp towards Addis. We reached the capital after 12 hours of traveling. The radiator had started to leak and needed to be refilled regularly.
We found accommodation at the Beer Garden Inn, an Ethio – German Hotel with attached brewery, (serving a delicious ‘Blondie’ a kind of Weizenbier) unloaded all our equipment and booked Konstantin in at Moenco (Toyota) for repairs.
A final analysis of the damages can be only done next Monday, as Friday is the Ethiopian New Year.
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