Rock-hewn churches, Mekele & Lalibela

On an early mornings drive from Adigrat we reach one the oldest rock hewn church (semi monolithic) of the Tigrai region. We are picked up by a ‘guide’ who explains, that we first need to fetch the priest, who is also the keeper of the key. We give them both a ‘lift’ through little used tracks amongst fields of tef and sand stone homesteads. Ploughing is done with oxen and families sit in their fields to do weeding. As we pass, heads pop up and hands wave. No tractors or implements in sight.

Climbing up steep sandstone formations, leading us to the church which is ceremoniously opened by the priest with an ingenious wooden key and rope system. We enter one of the finest rock-hewn churches in the Tigrai region.

Medhane Alem Kesho.

We continue on a side road that is neither on the map nor the GPS, however recommended by our guide book.

The landscape is vast, surrounded by rugged mountain peaks on which many historical churches can be explored, selectively, we did so. Emphasis must be given to the soil and water management in capturing it by dry stone walls and creating agriculture land where there was none before, in the midst of bare rock.

We find Gheralta Lodge en route, built with the Tigrai stacked sandstone rock construction, which is blending effortlessly in the environment, run by the Rizzotti family.

We satisfy our curiosity in spending a night in one sand stone house.

The landscape, view and silence made it a magic experience.

Mekele

We proceed to Mekele to arrange a visit to the hottest and lowest place on earth - the Danakil Depression.

We received offers from tour operators for a 3-4 days trip from USD 800 – up to 3,500, but when asking for details, not much came forward. Finally we decided on G.K.Tours which sounded reasonable and offered the usage of a Toyota Landcruiser in excellent condition.

6H30 the next morning they arrive with a beaten up Toyota GX with at least 13 years on its tyres. It was agreed that we could take our small fridge along. Unfortunately the cigarette plug had no connection and Uli started to make a direct link to the battery as the news came through that the access road, which is normally a dry river, is flooded and could trap our vehicle. It was proposed that the trip should be postponed for “tomorrow” Knowing the African meaning, and not prepared to hang around; we cancelled and carried on direction Lalibela

We stopped in a small village of Alamata which claims to have “the 3rd best” Hotel in the Tigray region. We were lucky not stopping in the 4th best............

One item from the menu read: Rise with SOS!

Lalibela

To conclude our historical circuit, we take an old route from Korem over Sekota to Lalibela. It is on good gravel and for once we are glad it is rainy season here. The morning sun lights up hill upon hill of yellow daisies(4328) called the “Addis Ababa” (new flower) New Year is coming up on the 11.9. in Ethiopia, then these flowers are gathered and exchanged for food or clothing.

We arrive in Lalibela after an arduous 5½ hours drive of 200 Km! and find our Hotel, situated at 2600meters altitude overlooking the mountains and valleys which we conquered.

A thunder storm builds up and we are happy watching this from a dry balcony.

The next day we had the full tour of 12 rock-hewn churches in Lalibela, which from the stone masonry point of view are truly amazing. Unfortunately they are full of fleas, rubbish, human excrements, etc and this doesn’t come cheap either at USD 100 for guide, entrance fee, shoe bearer and photo tips for the priests.

This is the last point of the historical circuit.